4.22.2007

You know you're a surfer when...


That's right folks. Yesterday I had my first surfing lesson from Chris Quinn. He's a haole (white man) who has lived here his whole life. His father was the first govenor of Hawaii and he is wonderfully quirky. He took me out for my first lesson yesterday and it was a blast. I can't stand yet but I got up on my knees once and I became really good at catching the surf and riding it in while laying on my stomach. I came out fairly unharmed, escaping with just some bruises from where the board met with my bones, a pretty serious cut on my foot from the coral, and as you saw a rockin stripe across my leg from the leash. I will hopefully be up on my feet next time and will remember to put sunscreen on my legs.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

nice work Meg, instead of farmer tan, surfer tan.

Anonymous said...

Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!