Tip number 2- when you see a wave you want to catch turn away and paddle like hell.
Tip number 3- make sure you are not too far forward on your board or else you will end up head over board and in a lot of pain.
That's right folks. Even after last weeks slice to the foot and racing stripe across my leg I decided to try my hand at surfing again. My goal is just to be able to stand at least once before I leave the island. Last week I rode a few on my stomach. This week I did the same. Then on one of the waves I forgot tip number 3 and it was not pretty. I went under and the board went over and the fin went in. Yup...Ouch! I found myself a bit timid after that and rightfully so but my determination and bull headedness won over and I was back on the board ready to take another wave or be taken. So I toughed it out and on my first wave back I bravely got up on my knees. On my second I was up in a lunge-like position, one knee down one knee up. I decided I would quit while I was ahead. After all, this is an improvement from last week. If all goes well I will be on my feet next week. I will be sure to keep you posted but until then I leave you with this...
MY BATTLE WOUNDS
1 comment:
What a cool adventure you are having; I am jealous. I'm sure whoever is teaching you to surf can surf a whole lot better than I can, but I hope they have you on a nice longboard with lots of buoyancy. It's a million times easier to learn how to surf on a good longboard than a shortboard. I learned how to surf during summers off from college in Ocean City MD (a long way from Hawaii) and it just takes a while. Keep it up. You will get it. And once you get up on the board, you will never want to stop.
Good luck!
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